TRAVEL: LANZAROTE - NEW FRONTIERS

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A trip to Lanzarote quickly dissolved all pre-conceived notions of this wondrous and staggeringly beautiful archipelago. Check out my story published in SurfGirl Magazine below!

Lanzarote has been frequently tarnished somewhat unfairly with an unjust reputation of a barren, unwelcoming boozed-up Brits abroad mecca, unjustly possibly putting-off prospective visitors.  But the tides are turning for the Canary Islands, Lanzarote a jewel in their awe-inspiring crown. The secret’s coming out that in reality, they are a place of unparalleled natural beauty, adventure, and, incredible surf.

Sophie Everard touches down in the heart of the Canary Islands in search of the Lanzarote truth.

First impressions are of a landscape resplendent in jagged and natural beauty, a lunar-esque feel emanating from Lanzarote’s well known volcanic crags. But the landscape isn’t strictly speaking an entirely bleak canvas of imposing rock: earthy, vast landscapes punctuated with staggeringly beautiful flora and Lanzarote’s renowned cacti, sweeping golden sand beaches and epically stunning blue skies are immediately captivating.

Meeting up with local surf coaches Maria Martel and Mailys June Cantrelle, long-time residents of Lanzarote, their friendly and stoked dispositions immediately sets the tone for the vibe of the surf scene I encounter during my trip.  A first surf at notable break Famara, with its 6 kilometres of golden sands and differing peaks, and abundantly crystalline deep-blue water, make for an amazing first impression.  “It’s definitely one of the most beautiful places I’ve been”, 34 year old Maria, a coach at Costa Noroeste Kite and Surf school at Famara beach suggests.  A Gran Canaria native who came to Lanzarote 4 years ago, Maria adds “Lanzarote has a different energy…I don’t know why, but if you come here, you will feel it…”.

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It could be the justly jaw-dropping landscapes, with vast mountain regions surrounding the island, famous not just for its surf but awe-inspiring natural beauty including volcanic craters, a favourite with tri-athletes for training, and free divers for the deep, clear ocean waters, but that energy is palpable immediately.  Paddling up to me, surf coach & model, 22-year-old Mailys June Cantrelle, a Lanzarote native since she was 7 years old, who has been surfing since she was 12, cheers me into a set wave before explaining to me that she believes Lanzarote is “a unique island…a dream island for left handers!”.

Surfing in Lanzarote is synonymous for its challenging reef breaks and big winter swells.  Mailys explains that in Lanzarote, “everybody can surf here…you have beach breaks and reef breaks for surfers who have more experience, good weather, and you can surf with a bikini or short wetsuit during the summer.”  As we drive to the next spot, I rub my eyes in near disbelief, a perfect barreling left with around 10 locals tearing it to pieces under orange dusky skies, crews of friendly locals on the beach clinking beers as the show unfolds in front.  “We are a big family” Maria begins.  “Everybody knows each other for a long time. When good swells arrive in Lanzarote, you can see plenty of people waiting for the proper tides, talking about the waves with no rush at all, making barbecues in a friend's house in front of the peak.”  With an array of varying spots,all the North and West coast you have good waves and East coast to, but the swell must be on the right direction and have enough power” Mailys suggests. 

With a healthy proportion of local women charging the lineup (Maria adding “most of them are mums! They started late surfing. But they have the courage to try scary waves here.  Awesome!”) and a respectful energy of line-up etiquette ensuring you feel pretty safe in the water, Lanzarote is an ideal location for intermediate to advanced surfers looking for advanced breaks.  

With a multitude of other activities on the island including underwater exploration through scuba and freediving, skateboarding, exploring the volcanic coastline hiking and running and of course checking out the volcanic craters and natural lagoons, Lanzarote is an epic destination for adventure enthusiasts.  The stunningly clean water is a popular playground for the locals.  “I love to go on glassy days to snorkel. I really love to see the sea underwater, and when I have time I'm under 12 meters, trying to train my apnea” Maria adds.  “I also love to go with Taro (my doggy) skateboarding by the promenade at Costa Teguise or Playa Honda.  And sometimes bowling with my friends in Santa Rosa, Costa Teguise.”

A short trip to this magical island immediately captures me under its spell.  I want more of Lanzarote’s aquiline, azure waters and perfect waves, dusky gold tones, imposingly vast landscapes and friendly and rad locals.  I’ll be back.

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LOCAL SURFER GIRLS MARIA AND MAILEYS TOP TIPS FOR LANZAROTE

SURF AND FUN

  • Surf Famara, a beginner friendly 6km break

  • Pack a longboard and skate the sweepy promenades

  • Hit the road: explore Lanzarote by bike

EATING

  • La Mar Café (Caleta de Famara) Free Wi-Fi, healthy food, poke bowls, and sea views

  • El Montadito (Costa Teguise) amazing tortilla Española, “seriously, the best” (Maria)

  • Croisanteria El Tertulia (Caleta Famara) for the best hot sandwiches in town

  • Dolomiti (Puerto del Carmen) awesome when you need something really sweet like choco pancakes with ice cream or huge waffle with different toppings..

  • Favourite restaurants: El Sol, El Barquillo, Las Bajas, la Cantina , Casa playa, Alma.

PARTYING

  • La Palmera ( Villa de Teguise) on Sundays

  • Chiringuito (Famara)

  • La Cueva del Carnero (Guatiza)